CURRENT PUPAE - Chrysalides and cocoons

World Collection of Exotic Butterflies DELUXE SELECTION of FIFTY pupae

WIDE VARIETY OF SUPERP SPECIES for a special price!

From several world regions and families. Un-identified, selected for beauty and interest. The pupae alone are things of great beauty and interest. One of the real joys of nature! 

The DE LUXE includes such beauties as the Larger exotic Swallowtails, Iridescent blue banded Prepona, Ornate Lacewing Butterflies, and the like. The pupae are usually larger and some very intricate.  Well worth the difference in price. Some species develop in the pupa quite fast, which is why for international orders it is essential to send by courier, though this does not guarantee safe arrival, particularly in summer and to hot countries. in cooler months pupae usually arrive safely.

Illustrations are representative: yours may not be these species as there are so many to choose from - good value is always assured. When possible 10 different species will be sent though this is not always possible.

IMPORTANT - Please read this guide to hatching of exotic butterfly pupae: 

Provide warmth and humidity that the pupae normally experience in the tropics. About 30°C is ideal, and humidity above 70%. The butterflies like a warm greenhouse containing varied plants, especially those producing nectar flowers to feed from, and this is the best place also for the emerging cage for the pupae. Examples of nectar flowers include Ixora, Buddleia, Pentas, Eupatorum, Clerodendrum and most Asteraceae (formerly Compositae). Shade the cage from direct sun, which is too harsh. If you don’t have such an environment, you may be able to simulate a warm and humid atmosphere in another way, but don’t apply direct heat. The whole cage needs to be in an even temperature and humidity, which is best provided in a tropical greenhouse environment.  It is usually beneficial to mist the pupae at least once a day. It is normal in nature for night to be cooler than day.

It’s a good idea to suspend the pupae. To do this, use a cane held horizontally. Apply a very thin line of contact adhesive eg Evostick along the cane. Lay the cane on a table and, when it is tacky but not yet set hard, touch the tails of the pupae on the line of glue. Warning: excess glue actually kills the pupa, so use just a very thin line. When the glue has set you can pick up the cane, with all the pupae hanging by their tails from it.

Pupae of the Swallowtail and Pierid families don’t hang from the tail (cremaster), head downwards. They are attached to a twig at the tail, and they use a silk sling around the wing cases to anchor themselves, head upwards and at an angle away from the twig. To simulate this, you can take some lengths of cane. Make a thin line of glue as described above. Lay the cane on a table, then attach the tails of the pupae to the glue line, and touch the abdomen also against the glue line. Once dry, the cane can be arranged standing at an angle against the sides of the emerging cage, or you can arrange them stuck into a block of florist’s foam. There needs to be enough space to allow the emerging butterflies to climb up, expand and dry their wings.

Usually fixing the pupae to a cane helps to give hatching butterflies the best foothold. When fixed to canes pupae are very exposed and can easily dry out. Mist them several times a day.  If you don’t wish to glue the pupae to a cane, they can be laid out on corrugated card or other rough surfaces, such as greengrocer’s imitation grass mats or coconut matting, flat on the bottom of the emerging cage. This material may help to keep the pupae moist if you spray them at least once a day.  For hygiene the material needs to be cleaned or replaced every few days.

Resulting butterflies do well in a tropical greenhouse, planted with lush greenery and copious nectar-bearing flowers. Some species like to feed from over-ripe fruit. They may live 2-4 weeks in such conditions, exceptionally they can live longer. Kept in a cage in a house, their life may be just a few days, but sometimes longer if they are given fresh nectar flowers each day, and misted to prevent the atmosphere becoming too dry. Non-native butterflies must not be released.

World Collection of Exotic Butterflies

From several world regions and families. Un-identified, selected for beauty and interest. The pupae alone are things of great beauty and interest. One of the real joys of nature! 

Choose between the STANDARD World Collection and the DE LUXE World Collection. Both are varied and interesting. The DE LUXE includes such beauties as the shimmering blue Morpho, Giant Owl Butterflies, Larger exotic Swallowtails, Iridescent blue banded Prepona and the like. The pupae are usually larger and some very intricate.  Well worth the difference in price. Some species develop in the pupa quite fast, which is why for international orders it is essential to send by courier, though this does not guarantee safe arrival, particularly in summer and to hot countries. in cooler months pupae usually arrive safely.

Illustrations are representative: yours may not be these species as there are so many to choose from - good value is always assured. When possible 10 different species will be sent though this is not always possible.

IMPORTANT - Please read this guide to hatching of exotic butterfly pupae: 

Provide warmth and humidity that the pupae normally experience in the tropics. About 30°C is ideal, and humidity above 70%. The butterflies like a warm greenhouse containing varied plants, especially those producing nectar flowers to feed from, and this is the best place also for the emerging cage for the pupae. Examples of nectar flowers include Ixora, Buddleia, Pentas, Eupatorum, Clerodendrum and most Asteraceae (formerly Compositae). Shade the cage from direct sun, which is too harsh. If you don’t have such an environment, you may be able to simulate a warm and humid atmosphere in another way, but don’t apply direct heat. The whole cage needs to be in an even temperature and humidity, which is best provided in a tropical greenhouse environment.  It is usually beneficial to mist the pupae at least once a day. It is normal in nature for night to be cooler than day.

It’s a good idea to suspend the pupae. To do this, use a cane held horizontally. Apply a very thin line of contact adhesive eg Evostick along the cane. Lay the cane on a table and, when it is tacky but not yet set hard, touch the tails of the pupae on the line of glue. Warning: excess glue actually kills the pupa, so use just a very thin line. When the glue has set you can pick up the cane, with all the pupae hanging by their tails from it.

Pupae of the Swallowtail and Pierid families don’t hang from the tail (cremaster), head downwards. They are attached to a twig at the tail, and they use a silk sling around the wing cases to anchor themselves, head upwards and at an angle away from the twig. To simulate this, you can take some lengths of cane. Make a thin line of glue as described above. Lay the cane on a table, then attach the tails of the pupae to the glue line, and touch the abdomen also against the glue line. Once dry, the cane can be arranged standing at an angle against the sides of the emerging cage, or you can arrange them stuck into a block of florist’s foam. There needs to be enough space to allow the emerging butterflies to climb up, expand and dry their wings.

Usually fixing the pupae to a cane helps to give hatching butterflies the best foothold. When fixed to canes pupae are very exposed and can easily dry out. Mist them several times a day.  If you don’t wish to glue the pupae to a cane, they can be laid out on corrugated card or other rough surfaces, such as greengrocer’s imitation grass mats or coconut matting, flat on the bottom of the emerging cage. This material may help to keep the pupae moist if you spray them at least once a day.  For hygiene the material needs to be cleaned or replaced every few days.

Resulting butterflies do well in a tropical greenhouse, planted with lush greenery and copious nectar-bearing flowers. Some species like to feed from over-ripe fruit. They may live 2-4 weeks in such conditions, exceptionally they can live longer. Kept in a cage in a house, their life may be just a few days, but sometimes longer if they are given fresh nectar flowers each day, and misted to prevent the atmosphere becoming too dry. Non-native butterflies must not be released.

WORLD SWALLOWTAIL PUPA COLLECTION 10 pupae

These are unidentified, very varied in shape, size, colour and pattern. They are mostly tropical or sub-tropical and for emergence provide warmth and humidity that the pupae normally have in their natural environment. 

These are some of the loveliest butterflies of all butterflies. They come, unlabelled, ready to emerge and surprise you.  Some may form up and emerge within a few days, others may take a month or more. When possible ten different species will be supplied.

Photos on this site are representative and, as there are so many species, your collection may  have any of the possible species, not necessarily those illustrated.

Map Butterfly Araschnia levana Summer form POROSA

A charming and quite small Vanessid butterfly that occurs throughout much of Europe but not in the British Isles. It has been established in Britain but the colony was deliberately destroyed. This is a nettle feeder. The eggs are laid in unique pendant strings from the underside of a nettle leaf.  Younger larvae are gregarious. There are normally two broods: the spring brood is patterned rather like a fritillary. In July the second brood (form porosa) emerges looking like miniature White Admirals! Pairing is not easy but success is more likely if you can create a netting sleeve that brings the two sexes together, like the peak of a hood.  Second brood larvae hang up to pupate in secluded places for the winter. The pupae we are offering now are the summer form POROSA which is new to WWB listings. The butterflies emerge this summer and produce overwintering pupae.

Beckeri Marsh Fritillary Euodrydryas aurinia beckeri

This is the most magnificent form of the Marsh Fritillary – very large, boldly marked and the brightest colouring and pattern of all. Beckeri occurs in parts of Spain, Portugal and North Africa. This stock is from Portugal. The larvae feed on Honeysuckle, Snowberry, and some Knapweeds and Scabious. Pupae are due in April. Supplies will be limited.

Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus

An opportunity not to be missed!

Very unusual to have livestock available: this is the first time ever!  These pupae are dormant and should be refrigerated until spring.

The larvae feed inside the flowers and berries of Holly and Ivy. They can be reared on the flowers or pods of Broom and probably other plants of the same family. They live solitarily and are canibalistic, so keep them apart.

These larvae will produce another generation of butterflies this year. The second generation passes the winter in the dormant pupal stage.

Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus Europe

Livestock is seldom available. This is a scarce migrant to Britain. The larvae live inside the flowers and seed pods of Broom, Pea, and almost any Leguminosae (Papilionaceae)

The Adonis Blue Lysandra bellargus

The intense blue iridescence of the male is unmatched in Europe. The female has a rich burnt umber colouring.  To raise the larvae you need Horseshoe vetch Hippocrepis comosa, a low-growing plant, covered with yellow flowers in May, requiring calcareous soil.  The larvae, which will also feed on Coronilla, feed rapidly and pupate among the base of the foodplant.  In Britain the Adonis is double brooded, the adults flying in June and August.

Deathshead Hawkmoth Acherontia atropos Pupae

This is a very popular species! There is a shortage of atropos being bred in captivity anywhere. 

Winter pupae can be incubated or kept dormant until the spring. Earlier pupae should be allowed to hatch. In normal summer temperatures the pupal period lasts about a month. Keep the pupae as described for the Pupae Nest on the WWB website.

The larvae feed on many plants in the potato family, Solanaceae, but you don’t have to have these to keep the larvae, they do well on Privet. They have also been found feeding on Buddleia, resulting in a pale coloured larva that matches the leaves. The duration of the egg stage is just a few days, and the larvae grow probably twice as fast as our native hawkmoth larvae, completing their life cycle in as little as 4-6 weeks in summer temperatures.

The moth is just amazing to have alive on your hand! It is furry, and squeaks – almost like handling a little mammal. It also humps its back and displays the blue markings on the body, as well as the famous skull and crossbones on the thorax. The moth needs to feed, not from flowers but from a pad soaked in weak honey or sugar solution. They will seldom feed themselves: it is necessary to hold each moth firmly and, with a strong setting needle, guide the short mouth tube into the sweet feeding pads. They will resist the handling, but once the proboscis samples the sweet solution, they usually coninue feeding of their own accord for some time. The moths may need this assistance repeatedly every few days. Moths have been found inside beehives, attracted by the sweet smell of honey. 

In winter moths may be produced before spring if the pupae are kept warm.  To overwinter, bury the pupae in light compost that is not too damp but not allowed to dry out. The top of each pupa should be just showing. Store in a cool place (10-12 degrees C) away from predadors. Bring into the warm in April ready for May emergence. When the pupae are to be incubated, keep them warm (20-30 degrees C) and moist, and well drained. The ideal conditions are as described for the Pupae Nest on the WWB website.

Poplar Hawk Laothoe populi

These pupae will produce moths this year when given warmth and watering.

The moth has a curious resting position, with hindwings projecting in front of the forewings. Patterned in shades of grey, this large Hawkmoth escapes detection because of its curious shape.

Two broods are produced in May and July/August. The larvae are very robust, bright green, with stripes and sometimes red spots. Sleeved larvae do best, on Poplars, Willows and Sallows.

Very easy to breed.

Lime Hawkmoth Mimas tiliae

Some excellent forms of pattern and colour are appearing from these pupae, including one-spot, banded and brick red forms, as well as a wide colour range of normal pattern. There is no way of detecting these in the early stages, but we are illustrating some of these extreme forms that have been emerging.

Store pupae refrigerated for the winter. The moths normally emerge in May/June.

Extremely easy to rear on Lime or Elm. Other reported foodplants include Cherry, Alder, Birch, Oak, Hazel, Acer including Sycamore, Sorbus, Apple, Pear and Ash! In autumn the larvae will grow faster if kept warm. 

The larvae do particularly well sleeved on growing foodplant but can be kept in plastic boxes or cages. Beautiful streamlined larvae. Larger larvae are often heavily marked with flame and scarlet spots and blotches. Very variable. They pupate underground. In captivity they will pupate amongst folds of cloth or absorbent tissue.

Privet Hawk Sphinx ligustri

One of the largest Hawkmoths. Keep pupae cool for breeding in summer.

The caterpillar becomes enormous and is characteristic of the name Sphinx moths, by its sphinx-like resting position. Adults emerge in June and July.  They need nectar from the flowers of Privet, Valerian, Buddleia. 

Larval foodplants: Privet, Lilac, Ash, also reportedly Spiraea, Viburnum opulus, and other Viburnums,  Holly, Dogwood, Snowberry, Apple, Pear, Oleander, Leycesteria, Currant.

One generation in the year. Privet Hawks breed readily in a large cage with nectar and foodplant.